The wigs were unmissable from the Fire Island Pines marina, bright pink dots on the horizon that grew larger as the ferry neared the dock. The vessels upper deck teemed with drag: magenta beehives, fantastic fascinators, white-gloved hands waving at the cheering crowd on shore.It was the 50th Invasion of the Pines, an annual tradition that began in 1976 after Terry Warren, a visitor in drag, was refused entry to a restaurant on the New York island. In response, a group of queer people, led by the drag performer Panzi, stormed the Waterfront in heels and a Fourth of July ritual was born. Drag queens in golden fringe dazzle the crowd at the 50th Invasion of the Pines. Santiago Felipe/Getty Images for Tryst HospitalityThis year marked the first time I had witnessed the Invasion in person. As a longtime reporter in LGBTQ+ media, I was familiar with the tradition from news coverage. Whereas in past years, the Invasion seemed like a nostalgic throwback to a bygone era of gay repression, its purpose today feels (sadly) renewed. Political attacks on drag as well as transgender and gender-nonconforming folks have seen a stunning resurgence in the new Trump era. As many of my LGBTQ+ friends bemoaned feeling a lack of patriotism this Independence Day, I was reminded by these ferries that the fight for independence is both historic and ongoing.Communing with history is easy to do on Fire Island, a queer enclave that can feel like a trip back in time. There are no cars on the island, and getting there often involves a very old-school trek of train, shuttle, and ferry.While there are several hotels, the grand gay tradition is to book a house there with friends for a week (or the summer). Its not uncommon to share a room (or a bed) as well in one of these rentals, which can easily go upward of $10k for a week.I had the privilege of participating in my first house share this FIP trip. On the first day, I joked about the sacred bond Fire Island housemates share, but theres a measure of truth to that. Theres something magical about sharing a stay with other queer people, to adventure during the day and then swap stories around the pool, the hot tub, the kitchen. Its like experiencing Tom Bianchi Polaroids brought to life. A bustling boatload of drag queens arrives at the 50th Invasion of the Pines.Santiago Felipe/Getty Images for Tryst HospitalityFire Island is full of paths created by our queer ancestors. The rhythm of the gay day Low Tea at the Blue Whale, High Tea at Pavilion, a Middle Tea at the Tryst Pool Deck in between was first set in motion by the Blue Whales former owner, John Whyte, in 1966. In a daily happening called the Tea Dance, gay men, forbidden to dance with one another by law, would line-dance to songs like Hully Gully, a tradition immortalized in a famous dance scene in The Boys in the Band (both the 1970 and 2020 films). The beat goes on. Last year, the commercial district was acquired by Tristan Schukraft, the CEO of Mistr and Tryst Hotels. While some locals are skeptical of the changes Schukraft may bring to the Pines, the entrepreneur, who invited this reporter to cover the Invasion celebration, has made it his mission to promote and preserve queer spaces, which are needed now more than ever.To wit, the night of the Fourth, my partner and I walked from the famous Underwear Party at the Ice Palace through the Meat Rack, a wild stretch between Cherry Grove and the Pines. There, a party had sprung up, seemingly straight from the pages of Dancer From the Dance, Andrew Hollerans 1978 novel set on this queer paradise. Men danced and embraced between the sand and the sky, illuminated softly by lights strung from trees. It was a queer vision of the past, the present, the future. I cant wait to see it again.This article is part of Out's Sept-Oct issue, which hits newsstands August 26. Support queer media and subscribe or download the issue now through Apple News, Zinio, Nook, or PressReader.